Saturday, May 19, 2007, Q1119A
Q.   Sand Burrs What do you recommend to eradicate or control Sand Burrs ? Thank you for your help. - J. W. S.

A.   The best lawn weed control is to grow a thick and vigorous turf. Thick lawns prevent weed seeds from reaching the soil, germinating and establishing.

This is accomplished by frequent mowing. Always mow frequently enough to only remove 1/3 of grass blades/leaves height during each mowing. Have your soil analyzed to determine its' pH and nutrient availability. If indicated by a soil test additional nutrients may need to be applied in the form of fertilizer. Supply supplemental moisture if needed.

Only apply water if need and not by some preset schedule of the calendar or by a preset timer. Approximately 1 ½" of water per week total is sufficient to grow healthy lawn grasses in Texas lawns. DO NOT overwater your lawn, it's a waste of precious potable water, not needed and unhealthy for the lawn. The best time of day to irrigate is in the morning prior to 10 AM.

The second best route to take in grass/sand bur control is properly selected and applied at the recommended times are weed preventers. There are multiple brands of weed preventers at retailers throughout Texas. These retailers include but are not limited to; independent retail nurseries, garden centers, hardware stores, farm stores and home centers.

Applications of the properly selected products for grass/sand burs should be made by the end of Feb.-1st of March and again around June 1st. Remember, always apply any gardening aid according to label directions.

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Saturday, May 19, 2007, Q1119B
Q.   Crepe Myrtle - My mother has a gorgeous crepe myrtle tree and I am wanting to grow my own tree off of that one. Can you please email me back with instructions on what to take from the tree and how to root it? Thanks - K. D.

A.    Sure. Here's the "how to" for you and all the readers of my column.  Cuttings are rooted from crape myrtles by two basic types of cuttings, leafy and hardwood. Of the two I find hardwood cuttings easier to root and initially manage than leafy cuttings. Hardwood cuttings are taken in the fall after leaf drop and dormancy occurs. Make the bottom cut just below a node and at a 45 degree angle and the top straight across. Nodes are where leaves or twig are or have been attached. The diameter of the cuttings should be no smaller than a wooden kitchen match and no larger that a standard wooden pencil. Make your cuttings 8 - 10" long.

After completing the number of cuttings you wish to make secure a location where they may be placed directly in the ground for a year or use a 12" and larger container. Dip the bottom inch of the cuttings into a rooting hormone powder if desired and insert into the selected location leaving approximately two nodes above the soil line. When using a container make sure the depth is adequate, the container drains well and a premium light weight potting soil is utilized.

The following spring new growth should emerge from your cuttings and perhaps all of them, however DO NOT transplant them. The time to relocate/transplant these cuttings will be during the dormant season that follows their spring growth. This is normally in Dec. to mid Feb. for most of Texas.

Leafy cuttings should only be started in containers that drain well and filled with premium lightweight potting soil. Leave approximately 1" space from the selected container(s) top rim and your chosen mix and firm with your palm. These cuttings are selected from current season growth after becoming semi-woody and from selections slightly larger than the wooden kitchen match previously mentioned of about 1/8" in diameter and 4 - 5" long. Again, make the bottom cut at a 45 degree angle just below a node. In the case of leafy cuttings this may be where current leaves are currently growing. Remove these leaves and perhaps 2 -3 or more to leave 2-3 remaining sets of leaves at the top of your cuttings.

When the desired number of cuttings are made dip their bottom cut ends into the rooting hormone approximately 1", use a pencil make a hole in the container's soil mix and insert the cuttings approximately ½ their length and firm the soil mix by hand around them. Space cutting approximately 2" apart and fill the container. Upon filling the container with cuttings water thoroughly.

The next step is to construct a wire structure and cover with plastic. This is easily done by raiding the closet for two wire clothes hangers. Untwist and straighten each selection. Bow the straighten wire and slide each end into your container's outside edge approximately 4" deep. After installing the first turn 90 degrees and install the second wire bow in the same manor. The goal is to have four rather equally divided segments if looking down on top of this structure. Next item. Secure a section of the plastic often used on clothes sent the cleaners and drape over the structure and sides of the container. You may wish to secure with a string, twine, bungee cord or in some other method to hold the plastic in place.

Place this home made propagation unit with crape myrtle cuttings in filtered light. DO NOT place in the sun unless you want to cook the cuttings. Check the soil and supply supplemental water if and when needed.

If all progresses well check for roots in eight weeks.  Well rooted cuttings may be moved into individual containers for additional growing. Do not place these newly rooted cuttings into the location(s) where you wish to utilize them in the landscape. They need some more container growing time to develop adequate root systems. Should they do well through the summer and fall these new plants may be ready to plant during the dormant season.

Have some fun with this and let me know how things worked out for you in this plant propagation adventure.

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 Friday, June 01, 2007, QA1120A
Q.  Impatiens - Hi Dale - The front of our house has a northern exposure.  In past years we have planted impatiens and they have done very well, however, we extended our flower beds a couple years ago and now they get close to full sun and impatiens no longer do well.  Actually, despite frequent watering with soaker hoses they turn into sticks when it's gets very hot. 
I'm considering planting either pentas or verbenas as a border plant this year.  Can you tell me which you'd recommend?  The verbenas look beautiful at the nursery but will they get too leggy for a border?  Which one provides the best continuous show of color?  I think both do well in the heat and bloom all summer, right?
Some people have told us that there are now impatiens that can take full sun?  The nursery tells us that this isn't true.  What do you think?   And even it they can take full sun that doesn't mean they can stand up to the intense heat, right?
I'm hoping to plant this weekend and would appreciate your advice! –C. W.

A.   Impatiens are “knock your socks off” beautiful when they have their pretty faces on. And, this is normally in the cool times of the year where we live. I agree on the “sticks” looks. It is not a water issue but one of Texas heat.

Of the two groups of summer heat and sun tolerant plants you list, in Texas I would go with the pentas. Another possibility is lantana. They bloom all summer and butterflies love them. In today’s market place there are several colors and forms of lantana including purple.

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Friday, June 01, 2007, QA1120B
Q.  Plum Trees - Last year, and now this year, our plum trees have very tiny leaves, maybe hundreds, where there normally is 25 or 30. Have you run across this? -L. C.

 A. This sounds like a problem with your plant’s root stock sprouting out. Check the location of this new growth and if it is emerging below the graft use the appropriate pruning tools such a bypass hand pruner, lopper or pruning saw and remove at the point of origin.

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Friday, June 01, 2007,QA1120C
Q.   Rye Grass - Grass that was planted at our new home last fall is dying out and we want to plan a new lawn. I was told the lawn was temporary; it was rye grass and would die out sometime in May so this is expected.  What lawn grass do you recommend and how should it be planted? Thank you. - D. K.

A. True, rye grass will fizzle out in our part of the world at the end of spring – beginning of summer time frame. This applies to both annual and perennial rye.

For full sun common Bermuda grass is hard to beat. Some varieties of zoysia are also very good in Texas however not all varieties do well. 

Prior to planting the dying rye grass may be mowed down to ground level and solid sod set directly on the remains. Plugs or cut blocks may also be set in the soil with the root system below ground and the vegetative parts above ground in this same type of site preparation.

If you decide to plant Bermuda grass from seed yourself or have it hydro mulched after the mowing is complete, till and rake to prepare a seedbed. When planting from seed apply 1 ½ to 2 pounds of hulled seed packaged for this season and water thoroughly.

So, what to plant is your decision. NOW is a great time to plant permanent lawn grasses. More grass/lawn information is available at aggie turf on the Internet.

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Friday, June 01, 2007,QA1120D
Q.   Roses - I planted a couple of roses early this year and now they have spots on their leaves. What can I do to stop this? Thanks. - F. H.

A.  This foliar disease is probably black spot. It could be an issue through the year with some relief in mid summer when out heat and dry weather arrives.

There are several aids available at local retailers to control black spot on roses. During our recent cloudy high humidity conditions applications may be required weekly to achieve desired results.

If you decide to utilize these or any other gardening aid, be sure to read and follow label directions.

Note: Plant EARTH-KIND™ roses in full sun locations where the soil drains well and good air movement exists and disease problems will be a “past problem”.

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Friday, June 01, 2007, QA1120E
Q. Hydrangeas - I have seen some beautiful blue hydrangeas on a trip to Tyler. I grow good looking hydrangeas in Central Texas but mine are pink. Why? – G. K.

A.  The soils are naturally acidic in East Texas and naturally alkaline in your location. The common hydrangea blooms are normally blue in acidic soils and pink in alkaline soils.

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Wednesday, June 06, 2007, Q1121A
Q.   Lacy Tree Philodendron -I have a huge Lacy Tree Philodendron (P. Selloum) that is in a pot on my dining table. It has nearly swallowed my dining room, but it has much sentimental value to all my family members. 
We have a house on the lower Gulf coast and I would like to plant it in that yard, since I don't think it could live outside in this climate. Could we possibly wrap it in wet burlap and lay it in the bed of a pickup and drive 500 miles and have it survive?  It has 15 leaves, each the size of a bushel basket or larger.  If you think it could make it down there, and we get it in the ground, am I right that it needs to never be in direct sunlight?  And what sort of haircut do we give it when we put it in the ground? And while I'm asking, how should we prepare the ground for such a big plant? Thank you for your advice. I really appreciate it. – B. M.

A.   Congratulations on the Gulf coast home. It's a place that speaks to me. Our coast is a USDA Plant Hardiness zone 9, which means plants, will survive in this zone, which will not in our other zones. Philodendrons are true tropicals and therefore very frost/freeze sensitive. Remember, the Galveston Bay has frozen. While Gulf coast and Rio Grande valley freezes are unusual, they to occur.

Philodendron selloum should do well out of doors in shady areas 19 out of 20 years but no guarantees that a frost or freeze won't sneak in and bite your specific plant. It’s your decision to plant outside or not.

During transportation cover the entire plant with burlap or plastic shade cloth. Plant in it's new location the same depth it is currently growing, water thoroughly and mulch the entire root system 3-4" deep, keep moist and it should establish and do well. Always remember, freezes/frosts do occur along our coast and you need to be ready to protect it if this danger is a possibility.

Good luck on your project.

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Wednesday, June 06, 2007, Q1121B
Q.   Boxwood Hedge - I would like to trim my boxwood hedge back about 1 foot. When is the best time of the year to do this? Do I do it gradually, say 6 inches a year or drastically with one cut? I have just now trimmed it about 6 inches and am wondering how long it will take to recover. Thanks in advance for your advice. - B. P.

A.  Now. You may remove it all in one cut. It should but no guarantee be fully re-sprouted with new leaves, stems, branches during this season.

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Wednesday, June 06, 2007,Q1121C
Q.   Landscape Beds - What is best to refresh/prepare 15year old flower/shrub landscape beds that have eroded?  Will a commercial landscape mix work? - R. B.

A.  Do whatever is needed to construct an edge that will help to hold your bed materials in place. This could be steel edging, treated wood, brick, stone or other materials.

If your main concern is “filling” in eroded areas back to original bed depth, utilize a mix that’s as close as possible to your current composition. The term “landscape mix” is non-specific. If your current bed composition utilizes similar materials you may wish to proceed with its utilization.

I strongly recommended maintaining a 3 – 4” deep layer of organic mulch on new as well as mature landscape plantings year round. Shredded tree trimmings, shredded tree bark and similar materials work well.

Note: Maintaining the mulch layer as I’ve described is an aid in becoming more WaterWise in any Texas landscape plus reduce weeding maintenance and fertilizer applications. Keeping plants mulched is a positive cultural activity all of us can be involved in.

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Wednesday, June 06, 2007, Q1121D
Q.   Mowing - How often should we mow? We get different advise and value your council. Thanks. – R. K.

A.   Mow frequently enough to remove approximately 1/3 of the grass blade/leaves with each mowing. Always make sure you mower’s blade(s) are sharp.

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Wednesday, June 06, 2007, QA1122A
Q.   Crape Myrtles - We have some white stuff on our crape myrtles. What is it and how do we get rid of it? Thank you. - D. K.

A.   The issue is a fungus called powdery mildew. Recent rains, high humidity and limited air movement in urban locations provide environmental conditions favorable for powdery mildew. During our hot and dry summer powdery mildew usually isn't a problem.

There are several products/aids available at retailers statewide. If you decide to utilize one of these be sure to read and follow label directions.

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Friday, June 15, 2007, QA1122B
Q.    Esperanza - On a trip last summer to San Antonio we saw some beautiful bushy plants loaded with yellow blooms. We would like to plant some at our home but are not sure what they are. Can you help us? - G. L.

It is not reliably winder hardy north of San Antonio. I utilize it as a WaterWise and EARTH-KIND(tm) heat and sun tolerant color plant for the landscape. This year it also returned for another season of color that is great but I do not expect survival and regrowth each year in my slice of Texas.

Take a look at your local or area retailers and if they have the plant secure one or more, install in full sun locations and enjoy the season long color.

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Friday, June 15, 2007,QA1122C
Q.   St. Augustine -We are having difficulty in growing a thick lawn where our yard is shady. The grass is St. Augustine and is suppose to grow in the shade. What are we doing wrong or not doing? Thanks. - E. G.

A.  Here's the deal, while St. Augustine grass will grow in full sun to shady locations it will not in the absence of sun. This shade tolerant turf grass needs four hours of full sun minimum or its equal daily. Locations with 50% sun and 50% shade for eight hours will equal four hours of direct full sun.

If sufficient sunlight is not available St. Augustine will thin and in some locations die out totally. So, if you do not have sufficient light as I've mentioned in your target location(s) it's decision time.

You need to decide to maintain your lawn "as is", look for ways to improve the situation or do something else with the location. Trees or selected tree limbs could be removed to provide sufficient sunlight in the trouble spot(s). Ground cover and/or shade loving shrubs could be utilized in place of turf grass. A deck or other structure could be constructed and enjoyed in the shade.

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Friday, June 15, 2007, QA1122D
Q.   Repotting House Plants - I want to repot a houseplant but I'm new to this and need to know what kind of soil and pots do you recommend. - S. T.

A.   This is a good time of the year to repot houseplants especially if they are root bound.  Any type of material will work for containers including ceramic, unglazed terracotta, plastic, metal and wood. The most important function of containers it to make sure they will drain well. Note how nursery containers have four or more holes at the bottom side at the point where the side walls joins the bottom. The holes are equally spaced.

If selecting a ceramic container make sure it has multiple drain holes. In metal, wood and terracotta additional holes may be drilled into the sidewalls just above the floor/bottom. A carbide tipped masonry half-inch diameter bit works well for terracotta. High-speed bits work well in both wood and metal.

The best type of soil to utilize when potting or re-potting houseplants is a professional grade lightweight potting soil mix. These are widely available state wide at retailers. Do not us garden soil or heavyweight-bagged soils.

When repotting is complete the container should have one to two inches of space from the top of the soil to the container's rim. This provides space for applying water

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 Saturday, June 23, 2007, QA1123A
Q.   Worms Eating Tree Leaves - Some of our shade trees have worms eating the leave and also formed webs. What can we do to get rid of them? Thanks. M. G.

A.   The critters in question are eastern tent caterpillars. These insects may be controlled by a wide range of  gardening aids including products containing the biological active ingredient BT. Remember to read and follow label directions on whatever product you decide to utilize. To achieve desired control it is necessary to penetrate the web because it acts like a protective tent. This may be done by physically tearing oper the webs with a long pole or high pressure water. Small clusters of these visitors may be pruned out of small twigs with a pole pruner.

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Saturday, June 23, 2007,  QA1123B
Q.   Lawn - Our lawn has some areas that are thin. How can we make it thick? Is now an OK time to plant new grass? – G. K.

A.   Now is a good time to plant our warm season southern lawn grasses. Bermuda, St. Augustine and zoysia may be planted from sod or plugs. Bermuda may also be planted  from seed.

Mowing frequently is considered one of the most important cultural practice to help lawns to become thick. Mow frequently enough to remove 1/3 of the grass blade’s height with each mowing.

If your grass is not actively growing, nitrogen(N) may not be available in the root zone. Nitrogen and other plant nutrients may be determined by a soil test. Contact your local County Agent’s office for soil sample containers and instruction sheets. Follow the test recommendations.

One other item on thin spots in the lawn. Light. Without sufficient sunlight  lawns will develop thin spots. This also includes St. Augustine grass because it needs four hours minimum full sun to grow well long term.

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Saturday, June 23, 2007,  QA1123C
Q.   Daylilies - We had some deer chew on our daylilies bloom stalks and they are brown. Is it Ok to cut them off? – F. K.

A.   Yes. Use a sharp pair of bypass pruners and follow the bloom stalk down into the plant’s foliage and cut it off.

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Saturday, June 23, 2007,  QA1123D
Q.   Lantana - Will lantana grow in shady areas? I love the blooms but all my beds are shady part of the day. Thank you. – S. T. 

A.   This group of plants do best in full sun. They usually bloom acceptably well in six hours of full sun. And I’m with you on the blooms.

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Saturday, June 23, 2007,  QA1123E
Q.   House Plant - I have an office with no windows. What houseplant if any could I grow in this type of condition? – R. L.

A.   Spathiphyllum or closet plant and Aglaonema or Chinese evergreen are two of the very best low light tropical houseplants. I have one of each in my no sunlight office and they have been there for four years. Give one or both a try, I enjoy them both.

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Friday, 29th June 2007,  QA1124A
Q. Worms in trees - How do we get rid of the worms in our trees? They are awful! Please advise. Thank you. - T. D.

A.  The current problem with “worms” in our trees throughout Texas is the webworm(Hyphantria cune) caterpillar. The webs serve as their home bases and are water repellant.

While they may not be attractive and a current pain in the landscape they will go away on their on. Yes, they will munch up some foliage and leave some waste by product. However, usually no long term damage to our shade tree results from their visits.

If desired they may be controlled by a wide assortment of gardening/horticultural aids on the market today at local nurseries, garden centers hardware stores and farm stores. The difficulty in applying an aid is to reach the sites of the problem areas and penetrate the webs. Physically disturbing or opening the webs prior to applying aids according to label directions is a best management practice that should be utilized.

Webs are opened by long poles of various types and high pressure. If the webs are relatively low most home owners can disturb the webs, apply aides and achieve the desired results. However, most of us do not have power equipment to reach 50 feet or more to the tops of tall pecan, oak or other tall growing selections of shade trees.

If this is your situation the choices are; leave the situation “as is” or hire a professional State of Texas licensed pest control firm. Several of these firm should be available in your local yellow pages.

More information on the critters is available at: http://dallas-tx.tamu.edu/hort/Links/Links.htm then click on; http://citybugs.tamu.edu/ and Webworms Active Now. This will take you to a Fact Sheet posted by Mike Merchant, PhD, Professor and Entomologist with Texas Cooperative Extension, Texas A & M University System.

Personally, I do nothing with them. However, like life the choice is yours. 

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Friday, 29th June 2007, 1124B
Q.   Redbud leaves turning yellow - I have a redbud and its’ leaves are turning yellow. I’m concerned and what should we wd? - G. K.

A.  It’s not surprising that more trees and/or other landscape plantings are not having troubles with leaves turning yellow. The most likely cause is to much rain.

In heavy clay soils there is no place for the water to rapidly drain and this year some locations are small lakes for several days. In these situations landscape plants may me impacted and their problems are most often expressed in leaves. They may drop, shrivel, turn brown, become yellow or all the above.

The treatment? Dry weather. One optional physical cultural activity to aid oxygen in reaching this or any other tree’s roots is to aerate the drip line area of each tree in stress. Multiple holes may be punched in the drip line area by you or a contractor.

No fertilizer or other gardening/horticultural aid is needed in this situation. Less rain, time and oxygen into the soil should provide relief.

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Friday, 29th June 2007, 1124C
Q.  Weeds in Lawn - We have weeds in our lawn and want to get rid of them. What do you recommend? - F. E.         

A.   The best weed control for our lawns is a thick vigorously growing turf. This is accomplished by:

• Planting well adapted grass varieties used as lawns
• Sufficient moisture at the root zone
• Available nutrients for healthy root, stem and leaf growth
• Frequent mowing

In Texas it may require an inch of supplemental irrigation in mid summer. This is best applied prior to 10 AM and at during one application. Soil tests will provide analysis of available plant nutrients. Follow their recommendations to provide adequate nutrients in the soil. Mow often enough to remove approximately 1/3 of the grass blades/leaves height with each mowing.

Following these basic suggestions should produce a desirable weed free lawn in ... time. This doesn’t occur overnight. And, each grass type has specific light requirements. Bermuda grass for example will not do well in shady locations no matter the cultural activities provided. Without sufficient light it will thin out and terminate. Thin lawns are open opportunities for weeds to become establish.

Remember, it’s a subjective choice as to what a lawn should be or appear. Some folks, myself included don’t worry with lawn weeds. Weed free lawns are possible, the choice to develop and maintain them is an individual choice.

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June, 2007 -QA1125A
Q. Leave Turning Yellow - Leaves on some of my plants are turning yellow while others are shriveling and some are rotting off at the ground. Is all the rain causing this or something else and what can be done? Thanks. – D. S.

A. Yes, all you have described could be caused by the liquid sunshine we have been receiving state-wide this year. And, I’m not complaining.

Here’s the deal. If plant roots do not receive sufficient oxygen this difficulty is expressed in the leaves. They may look as if there is not enough soil moisture even though the soil is saturated with moisture. Herbaceous or non woody plants such as annual color or vegetables may do as you have described, rot off at ground level. They too my just have yellow, wilted or even drop leaves and not rot off at the soil line.

What to do? Wait for July and August to dry out the soil in our “blast furnace” heat. Some other cultural activities that will help to increase evaporation and aeration, Physically pull your mulch back from the root system and punch holes into the soil. Exposing the soil aids in evaporation and holes in the soil aids in oxygen reaching the root systems. A simple digging/turning will work for this operation.

No fertilizers, “whiffle dust” or any magic other aid is needed here.

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June 2007 - QA1125B
Q.  Office Plant - I want to put a plant that’s easy to care for in my office that doesn’t have much light. What do you recommend? – G. K.

A.  Two of the very best low light house plan families are Spathiphyllums and Aglaonemas. Spaths are also known as Closet Plant and Peace Lily. There are several varieties and therefore various mature heights and widths. Their blooms are white. Yes, a house/tropical plant that will bloom in low light is true!

Aglaonems is also known as Chinese evergreen. These beauties are grow for their foliage. Various varieties have color, width and height differences in foliage and stems.

I utilize one of each in my office and they have not seen any sunlight in four years. Give one or both a try because I believe you will enjoy them.

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June 2007 - QA1125C
Q.  Containers for Deck - We would like to plant a couple of large containers of color for our sunny deck and would like to know what you recommend. Thank you. – P. S.

A.  I recommend 18” and up diamenenter containers for this application They may be unglazed terracotta, ceramic, plastic, wood or any other multiple season lasting material as long as they drain well. My containers are 20 – 24” in diamenter and sometimes I’d like some larger for banana trees.

Some plants that do well in TX sun during the summer in containers include: lantana, annual vinca, copper plant, vip or bush petunia, tropical hibiscus, mandevilla, cypress vine, sun coleus, gomphrena or bachelor buttons and various salvias.

Use premium/professional lightweight potting soil in the containers. Fill to within an inch of the pot’s rim and firm wit your palm. Install your selections and make sure the tips of their root balls are at soil level, firm soil around each plant and water thoroughly.

After watering is complete you may add a favorite organic mulch to the container’s top edge. Mulch in containers similar to landscape beds aid in creating a favorable root environment and conserving water.

Check moisture needs with your finger and irrigate as needed. And … enjoy!

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June 2007 - QA1125D
Q.  Fall Tomatoes - When should tomatoes be planted for a fall crop? – H. L.

A.  Usually in TX, the end of June or July 4th are ideal dates to shoot for when planting these tasty items. Some of the best varieties for TX include ‘Celebrity’, ‘Carnival’, ‘444’ and ‘Porter’. These varieties also do well in spring gardens.

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July 2007 - QA1126A
Q.  Crepe Myrtle Propagation - We live in the Clermont area of Florida.  We have about 10 Crepe Myrtles in our yard that our relatives planted and I want to plant more of them along my fence.  Can I just take a clipping and put it into water to root it?  My neighbor has purple ones and I would like to do the same with the ones from her?  Please help me out here I am not sure as to how to start the new plants. Thank you for your time and help. – D. C.

A.  Crape myrtles may be propagated and grown true to their parent form utilizing two methods of cuttings.

1. Leafy cuttings taken from current season growth
2. Hardwood cuttings taken from dormant plants

Leafy cuttings should be approximately six inches in length and 1/8 inch in diameter. Make the bottom cuts just below a node at 45 degrees. Nodes are the areas where leaves are attached. After cuttings are made remove one or more sets of leaves from the bottom up leaving approximately 4 inches leafless.

Plastic containers filled with lightweight professional potting soil and firmed with palm insert cuttings and firm media around each cutting. Space the selections approximately 2 inches apart in the container. After your container is filled with cuttings water thoroughly.

Raid your closet for two all wire hangers we all typically receive from laundry/cleaner firms coast to coast. Untwist them and bend in a bow form. Insert each approximately 4 inches into the media at the container’s edge 90 degrees apart to construct a structure to suspend clear plastic. Go back to the closet and secure a selection of clear plastic from your cleaner/laundry and cover the structure.

Maintain moist soil. In approximately six weeks check for rooting. When cuttings are well rooted, remove and place into one gal. containers filled with potting soil. Grow for approximately one year then install in the landscape.

Never root any crape myrtle cuttings in water.

Dormant cuttings may be taken anytime during the dormant season. These cuttings should be 1/1 to ¼ inch in diameter and 8 to 10 inches long. Bottom cuts should be as per leafy cuttings, below nodes and at 45 degrees. The top cut should be straight.

These cuttings should be inserted with 2 inches of height above the ground/potting soil. If you have a well-amended soil in a garden spot hardwood cuttings may be planted directly in this location.

Hardwood cuttings should remain in their initial locations for approximately one year. Repotting or locating rooted hardwood cuttings to planting locations should be done during the dormant season following initial removal from parent plants.

These two methods are used successfully for crape myrtles from Florida to California. Good luck on your project.

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July 2007 - QA1126B
Q.  Oleanders - Hi there.  We have about 30 acres just outside of Crockett.  Most of it Is covered in pine and other trees, but about 5 acres was cleared before we bought it.  We would like to plant oleanders as a front hedge but were afraid we might purchase the wrong kind.  Can you advise which are best for that area? Thanks! – J. and A.R.

A.  You are in a beautiful area of Texas.  What I suggest you ask for wherever you shop for oleanders is ‘hardy’ red, pink or white. Hardy red tends to be the most winter hardy.

It would be super if we could all grow the beautiful pastel colors found in the landscape along our coast, however most will terminate due to our winter temperatures. ‘Hardy Red’ and ‘Hardy Pink’ have done well as far north as Dallas County.

All varieties of oleanders will handle Texas sun and are WaterWise however only a few will varieties are relatively reliable beyond USDA plant hardiness zone 9 which includes out Texas Gulf coast and Rio Grande Valley.

A reminder here please. Remember, all parts of oleanders are toxic to humans.

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July 2007 - QA1127A
Q.  Pruning Fig Trees - Our figs have grown so large it is very difficult to harvest them. I have cut it back to a manageable height. Is this the correct route and do you have other recommendations for figs? Thanks. – E. L.

A.  Pruning Fig Trees - It sounds as if you have done well. I communicated with Larry Stein, PhD, Professor and Extension Horticulturist, Texas Cooperative Extension, Texas A & M University System regarding your query. Larry is a world-class fruits, nuts and berry horticultural specialist.

When figs become to large remove the larger older trunks back to a manageable height. Figs should be considered “bushes” and not trees. While the shortage of water is not a problem lately during dry periods fruit development is enhanced when sufficient soil moisture is maintained.

Selecting best locally recommended varieties and planting in full sun locations are the two most important factors in long term success with figs.

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July 2007 - QA1127B
Q.  Web Worms - A recent article I read stated that the fall webworms would not cause any harm to the plants.  Our neighbor has 2 fruitless mulberry trees that are filled with webworms every year.  I have lost viburnums, abelias, azaleas, gardenias, Texas sage and Indian hawthorns all to these little critters.  They are now trying to destroy my Bradford pear.  They are killing my neighbor’s crepe myrtle and cypress tree.  We have sprayed in two-week intervals with BT worm killer and are still fighting them.  They are eating my begonias.  Is there a difference in fall webworms and pecan webworms?  My neighbor will not spray his trees or prune the infested branches from his tree. They are spreading to a sweet gum tree and apple tree. Any comments or suggestions would be appreciated.  Thank you. –S. H.  

A.  Webworms(actually caterpillars) are webworms no matter where they are located. Control of these guests is achieved when aids are successfully applied to each caterpillar. Recommended products are not effective if they do not reach the target. It is not unusual for homeowners to have difficulty in penetrating their webs, which act as a “tent” and protects their homes.

While established trees may look less than attractive with webworms munching on their foliage, unless there are other factors they will put out new foliage after these unwanted visitors are gone. This is usually true of established shrubs also.                                     

If you are not achieving the desired control it may be time to seek a professional. Regarding your neighbor’s decision to not affect any controls, it’s a subjective choice and their decision. 

You may wish to visit http://citybugs.com for additional information on fall webworms.  

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July 2007 - QA1127C
Q.  Roses Disease - I’m having difficulty with diseases on my roses this year and would like to know what you recommend. Thanks. – G. K

A.  Apply control aids weekly according to label directions or plant EARTH-KIND™ Roses and don’t worry about diseases on roses. Plant EARTH-KIND™ Rose selections in full sun locations where the soil drains well and good air movement is available and enjoy these WaterWise beauties.

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July 2007 - QA1127D
Q.   Vitex - I saw a shrub recently with blue spike flowers. What is it and will it grow around Waco? – H. K

A.   The plant in question sounds like Vitex. This is a native large shrub/small tree that grows well in central Texas locations. It also grows from the Dallas/Ft Worth area throughout south Texas in full sun locations with well-drained soils.

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July 2007 QA1128A
Q.  Peach Tree Dying - We have a  Alberta Freestone peach tree that's dying. This tree is five or six years old, gave us a really plentiful crop this year and now is totally loosing (lost most of them) it's leaves. It sets at the corner of what used to be our garden, so the garden area is (was, we're in the process of trying to level it) lower, so the edge of the tree stands next to where lots of water has set.  Could the roots have been water destroyed? Is there hope for it's return, or should we dig it up/cut it down? PLEASE help me, as we need your help immediately. Thank you. - B. P.

A.  It sounds as if your tree is suffering from the lack of oxygen in the soil due to less than desirable root zone conditions. Peach trees need good soil drainage and may terminate if not provided. Wet and poorly drained soil conditions for prolonged periods will lead to termination.

There is no way to provide a definity answer on the viability of your tree in question. You may wish to take a wait and see approach.

Note. Are you sure the peach is 'Alberta'? Remember, the name/term ‘Alberta’ does not equal freestone. ‘Alberta’ is but one variety of freestone peaches. There are many freestone peaches but only one variety of 'Alberta'. If you like the flavor, looks and production season of 'Alberta' the variety 'Red Skin' is a superior variety and is also freestone. My favorite freestone peach is 'Loring', try one you might like it too.

December, January and early February are the best months to plant fruit trees in Texas.

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July 2007 QA1128B
Q. Buckeye Tree - I am a new transplant to Texas, and am confused by the native buckeye trees in my yard. One of the trees is over 30 years old, age of other tree unknown. They both have what appears to be a  'ground plate' that they are growing from. Last year, and again this year, they are sending up many little trees around the edges of the ground plate. My question: what is going on with the trees? is this normal? should the little trees be cut off, as we have been doing? Love the trees, they have a wonderful pink cloud of blossoms in the spring. Thank you in advance for your information. - B. A. R.

A.  Trees, shrubs and other plants have the ability to initiate new growth including shoots, sprouts and suckers from roots, and stems. These "stems" in the case of trees and large shrubs such as crape myrtles also include their trunks.

Seedlings may also sprout freely under the canopy of trees including Chinese pistachio, oaks and elms.

I'm not familiar with your terminology of 'ground plate', if this means at the soil or ground line then we are in business. Shoots, sprouts and/or seedlings may be cut off at or below the ground line if desired. If they are not controlled the "tree" may with time begin to look more like a large shrub or multi-trunk tree.

The prolonged period of rain and mild temperatures may have set up conditions for a relatively large quantity of seeds to germinate this season than in 2006 and 2005 or other less than desirable growing seasons. This year we have a great crop of Chinese pistachio seedlings in our home landscape and this had not occurred in the past ten years. Seedlings may also be pulled out of the ground if not deeply rooted and a grip is maintained. Some folks actually utilize a type of pliers to accomplish this activity.

July 2007 QA1128c
Dale’s notes:
* Due to our rainy season this year our plants may not have deeply developed root systems. This is especially true for annual color, vegetables and annual herbs. This condition may also apply to some traditional perennial plantings. As a result pay close attention to watering needs throughout the remaining summer. Irrigate only when needed and throughly with each application.

* If you have not done so, now is a prudent time to check mulch around all landscape plantings. Apply sufficient organic mulches including shredded tree trimmings or bark to obtain a depth of 3-4".

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